Thursday 30 May 2013

Exhaust heat shield loose - Fixed on Astra H Mk5

Exhaust heat shield rusted itself loose the other day, dropping down and catching on speed bumps. This seems to be a common thing on older cars, which I have done before on my old ford focus. I was intrigued to see how the Astra fittings compared to the focus, so set about fixing it. Looking under the car my initial thoughts were "****! those nuts are never going to undo".

The heat shield is held on by three flange nuts which is not a smart design. The one on the very bottom of the spare wheel well is exposed to the elements, so was all rusty, even the ones shielded by the exhaust were rusty. On the focus they use a metal clip which is a sacrificial part when removing. That design seems better because the thread will remain intact and the clip wont rust solid too it.

Out with the Plus Gas, 10mm socket and spanner. You guessed it that bottom one sheared but the other two surprisingly came off okay. I ended up jacking up one side of the car on axle stands just to gain better access underneath. I un-hooked the two rubber exhaust mounts on the back box which gives you enough room to undo the two heat shield nuts above it.  Picture shows the rusted remains where the thread should be.



Next job is to make some plates to cover the rust holes in the heat shield. You could use washers but finding some that big with a small hole might be tricky. The bean tin is my favourite for this task, cutting out squares then folding over the edges with pliers. The edge folding is essential if you want to avoid finger cuts and makes them easy to handle. You drill a small hole in each plate big enough for the thread to just pass through. Here's a picture of me making the plates.


I drilled a hole into the sheared head and into the spare wheel well to replace the snapped thread. The idea is to use a self tapping bolt and drill a small hole. Don't worry about the thread protruding into the spare wheel well as it's right under the plastic wheel support. Obviously empty the spare wheel well completely while drilling though!


Here you can see the thread from the bolt in the spare wheel well. I covered this in sealant after just to avoid any rust issues. You could do this a few ways depending on what bolt you had handy, it might look better with a bolt going from the inside outwards with a nut on the end. Just depends what you have handy and prefer.



You can just see the top two heat shield bolts in this picture, complete with shiny new plates.


That's how to fix a loose heat shield on a Astra H Mk5. You can go a step further and paint the new shiny metal patches in heat resistant paint e.g. calliper paint. I didn't have time to do that and my focus has been going strong for 2+years with a similar repair, while they have surface rusted they are still solid.

 If you find the above useful or you have other tips when doing this job then please leave a comment. Done a few jobs I need to write up so always good to hear if these have been useful for someone.

8 comments:

  1. Hi Speedy UK

    This has happened to my Astra Mk5 58 plate, realised last night when driving over a speed bump I heard a scrape. The corrosion looks very identical to the second picture.
    Just a quick question I don't want to damage anything trying to rip it out so could I just do the repair while its still hanging, obviously be a bit more awkward but id just put it on a jack.

    Also I am not sure how many bolts are hanging off so would the one just hold it if I perform the repair you have?

    Many Thanks for the useful info above, I now realise this isn't a massive issue, I have seen several posts saying just remove it but I do not want to do this as I do not want the extra heat emitted

    your response will be greatfull.

    Many Thanks
    Dan Harfield
    cbatbhatmbtw@hotmail.co.uk

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    1. Hi Dan,

      You are doing the right thing not just ripping it off, so good work for that. Like you say it stops heat transfer but the area underneath the heat shield is not protected with under-seal so it's worth keeping on.

      You can probably do the whole repair with the car on the ground if all the nut's unscrew. I had to put it on axle stands as my drill would not fit underneath. You don't need to fully remove the heat shield and that can be left in position as it can be tricky to get the right angles for it to slide out. I would say you need all the bolts secure as they stop it rattling. Worth saying but don't get under the car unless it's on axle stands as jacks fail and not worth the risk. You could always park it with passenger wheels on a curb to get you a bit more room to work.

      If you use the pictures as a guide you will be able to locate the bolts but access was a bit tight in places. Think I used a small 10mm spanner and socket for the easy to access ones.

      You just need to eat some beans or soup and get cutting that tin up now. Have a go and stand back knowing you fixed it properly instead of ripping it off.

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  2. Many Thanks for this!

    yeah im not very big so I can jus park it on the curb and perform this as id rather not get crushed!

    I have a ratchet set but assuming it may be awkward angles ill dig around for a 10mm spanner and use plenty of WD40 to help remove some corrosion.

    many thanks for this, if I cant do it then ill just get my mechanic to, money is tight!

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  3. Hi, thanks for posting this, mine has exactly the same problem. I have got a new one, but having trouble removing the old corroded one. When you say un-hock the exhaust mounts, what's the best way to support it so not to split the pipe or is it ok just to leave unhook them?

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    Replies
    1. Hi, Good point that might have used a tub of fence paint to support it for extended periods of time. Remember sliding the rubber mounts off both back box hooks near the bumper. Needed to do this to move the exhaust to passenger side slightly to access furthest bolt with spanner. Also allowed me to remove heat shield from car. Mid section is well supported on its own mounts so like you say just that joint that gets the pressure. I would say its fine free while your under there as it practically rests on your body while you tackle the bolts. Let us know how you get on and can you list the part number and price of the heatshield please. That would be useful info if someone's is too damaged or corroded to repair. Thanks

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  4. Thanks for the confirmation, I will get cracking and fit my new one once the rain stops.

    part number for a new one: 13177879
    list price £26.55 (ex VAT) - join the vx masterfit service club (free) to get a good discount on that price.

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    Replies
    1. Good information that and nice tip about the service club. Cheers.

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    2. Hi what website was it that you used to purchase as I’m struggling to find the part online for that price

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